VIVA OAXACA UPDATES

As a bonus to Viva Oaxaca readers. we're providing ongoing updates here, most of which will go into the next printed edition of the guidebook. We invite Viva Oaxaca purchasers to print any or all this information as your own up-to-the-minute supplement to Viva Oaxaca.

This page contains the following sections, which you can jump to by clicking below:

Auguest 19, 2010 -- Our hat is off to Ramis Azar, who has spearheaded Oaxaca's first International Independent Film and Video Festival. The festival will take place November 5 through 13, and will also include an international literature competition. For more information, click here.

August 2, 2010 -- Historic Organ Festival 2010 October 21-27, 2010 is now scheduled. The state of Oaxaca is home to a large number of baroque organs, many of which have been lovingly repaired. Getting to hear them played by great musicians in exquisite old churches is an unforgettable experience. For more information and a detailed schedule, click here.

July 13, 2010--Good News about Oaxaca: the state elections are over, Oaxaca has a new governor, Gabino Cue, and the election season's demonstrations and encampments are over, so Oaxaca's beautiful zocalo is back to normal.

Plus, Mexican cuisine--of which Oaxacan cooking is a unique and leading exemplar--has just been designated by UNESCO as part of the Patrimony of Humanity, "a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity."

June 26, 2010--International Historic Organ Festival for 2010-2011 starts July 3. The state of Oaxaca is home to a large number of baroque organs, many of which have been lovingly restored. Getting to hear them in their magnificent old churches is an unforgettable experience. Oaxaca's 2010-11 international festival starts July 3, 2010 at 5:00 p.m. at Soledad Basilica. The concerts are free. For the full schedule, click here.

June 21, 2010--striking teachers continue to occupy zocalo. As happens pretty much every year in Oaxaca, the state's teachers have gone on strike and set up an encampment at the zocalo. It's expected that they'll maintain their presence there at least until the elections in early July. It's also election season in Oaxaca. Voting will take place on July 4. So expect lots of marches, noisy speeches, sound trucks roving the streets, etc. The good news is that the rainy season has begun, so Oaxaca is cooler and more comfortable than it was in April and May.

May 22, 2010--Guelegetza 2010 tickets now on sale--The Gueleguetza is Oaxaca's premier celebration--eight days of regional music and dance. This year's main events will take place on July 19 and 26. The easiest way to buy tickets in advance is through Ticketmaster, which you can find at: http://www.ticketmaster.com.mx/Guelaguetza-boletos/artist/1210781.

April 20, 2010--Microcredit Comes to Oaxaca--A new grassroots organization is bringing the benefits of microcredit or microfinance to needy Oaxacans. It's called Fundación En Via, and it's applying the Nobel-prize-winning idea of providing very small loans to women for whom a few hundred dollars can enable them start or grow a small business. They've already helped more than 70 people to improve their lives. Contributors are thrilled by the results, and those who have accepted the program's invitation to visit the women and families they are helping have been deeply moved. It's a superb idea, and much needed in Oaxaca. To check it out, click here.

April 16, 2010--Oaxaca is settling down after the fervent festivities of the Easter season. These months, April-June, tend to be Oaxaca's hottest time. with highs in the 80s to 90s. If you like to bake in the sun under clear blue skies, this is a good time for you to be in Oaxaca. If you prefer cooler weather, that will roll in with the rains, usually starting in July, and of course during the fall and winter.

March 16, 2010--A nationwide union solidarity strike is taking place today. Here in Oaxaca that means marches, street blockages, most government offices closed, and missed appointments as people will have trouble getting into and around town. These marches are well organized and almost always non-violent, but it's best just to stay away from them.

March 6, 2010--The local government is continuing a major overhaul of Oaxaca's streets. The good news is that they are improving the system of water mains and drainage. Many of the pipes and drains workers uncover look as though they were installed a century ago or more. The bad news is that many streets are closed to cars, which is making Oaxaca's already messy traffic much worse. The upshot: check with your hotel or B&B about the status of their street before reserving. While you're here, watch your step! And, give yourself extra time getting anywhere in and around the city of Oaxaca other than by foot.

February 20, 2010--The quaresma, the 40 days prior to Easter, has begun. It's a period of lovely weather here in Oaxaca, along with many colorful events and observances in the city and nearby pueblos. It's a great time to be here.

February 6, 2010--something you should know: The local government appears to have an unlimited amount of money that they need to spend quickly. The way they're doing that is by tearing up and then repaving just about every street in the center of Oaxaca. This is making Oaxaca's normally bad traffic flow even worse, and also making many hotels, restaurants and shops difficult to get to. Some visitors have had to change hotels because of the difficulty of getting to and from them and noise. Nobody seems to get much advance notice of when their street will be turned into a war zone, but we suggest that you ask your hotel what's happening with their street before you reserve. We'll let you know when this locura (craziness) comes to an end.

January 6 was the day when los tres reyes (the Three Kings or Three Wise Men) distributed Christmas presents to the children of Oaxaca. Near the zocalo excited children got their pictures taken with beautifully costumed kings. On the evening of the 6th, families and friends got together to share fruit punch, Oaxacan hot chocolate, and la rosca de reyes (a sweet, ring-shaped bread baked just for this occasion). Those who happened--like me--to get one of the small dolls baked into the bread are obliged to treat everyone present to yet another fiesta of tamales and hot chocolate on February 2, which marks the end of the Christmas season. Soon after that, of course, the festivities leading up to Easter will begin.

CHEFI, a simple family-style restaurant in Villa de Etla, at Avenida Morelos # 44, that turns out delicious regional dishes. I had one of the very best black moles I've eaten, ever. Their chiles rellenos were wonderful--light and flavorful, and the rice that accompanied various dishes was perfectly prepared. This is a great place to go after a visit to CASA (see p. 23) up the hill in San Agustin Etla.

El Tipico, in their new location at Zarate # 100, between Pino Suarez and Libres (telephone 518 6557, URL www.eltipico.com.mx, open 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. every day). El tipico lives up to its name, offering excellent versions of Oaxca's typical dishes--botanas (appetizers), moles, chiles rellenos, soups, etc., at reasonable prices, in a very pleasant patio-garden setting. I (Robert) rate their mole negro among the very best I've had in Oaxaca.

La Jicara, at Porfirio Diaz #1105. This is a delightful new small restaurant-and-bookstore. Their food is imaginative and delicious, and the ambiente (environment) a bit bohemian and casual. They feature a comida corrida--fixed price menu--at $65 pesos Tuesday through Friday. We and our friends find ourselves going back as often as we can. Telephone (951) 516 5638 for their hours or for dinner reservations.

Pizza Umbra, at the northeast corner of the zocalo. You can read about it here.

Meson del Olivo, at Murguia # 218 (corner of Reforma) in the historic center; a gourmet treat featuring exquisitely prepared Oaxaan and Spanish food. We smacked our lips over their appetizer of sauteed setas (a particularly tasty kind of mushroom), wolfed down their spinach soup, and thoroughly enjoyed one of their codornices (quail) with fine herbs. The welcoming downstairs restaurant is open from 12:30 p.m. to 10 or 11, and their tasty, if somewhat pricey upstairs tapas bar opens around 4 p.m. and serves until 2 a.m.

Good Chinese food in Oaxaca? Well, not quite. The food at Mia Arroz is quite good, far better than any other Chinese food in Oaxaca, but the restaurant is out of town, on the Carretera Internacional--the International Highway to Mexico City. If you have a car, it's worth the drive, or, if not, the taxi fare. You can tell the taxi driver that the restaurant is on the right side of highway to Mexico, just before the turnoff to San Sebastian Etla ("Un poco antes de la entrada a San Sebastian Etla"). Thursday through Sunday only, 2:00 p.m. through 7:00 p.m.

El Teatro Culinario (The Culinary Theater). Artist, B&B owner and restaurateur Oscar Carrizosa has opened a small, very high-end restaurant at Allende # 107, between the pedestrianized Alcala, and Garcia Vigil. They offer an excellent comida corrida (fixed-price afternoon menu) that's well worth the visit. Dinner reservations recommended. Note as of 1/18/10: The afternoon comida corrida has been suspended. In the evening the restaurant offers three levels of tasting menus, starting at $400 pesos per person for five (small) courses. Reports from friends are not encouraging--tiny portions, often cold, and not nearly exquisite enough to match the price.

Continental Airlines has discontinued its direct flights from Los Angeles/LAX to Oaxaca (see Viva Oaxaca, p. 53).

Travel & Leisure Magazine (August, 2009), has named Oaxaca the #1 city to visit in Mexico, and #2 in all of Latin America, right after Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Adios, el Pochote market. The weekend organic market and very popular gathering at El Pochote, a lovely space behind the arches of Oaxaca's old aquaduct, ended on August 31, 2009, an unfortunate victim of its own popularity. A version of the market has spring up again at the space in front of the church of Xochimilco, the neighborhood just east of the historic center.

As soon as the Gueleguetza ends, Oaxaca hosts two weeks of classical music (July 27-August 8). World class musicians come to Oaxaca to give master classes, direct student concerts, and give concerts of their own. As soon as it's available, the schedule will be posted on Margie Barclay's very helpful Oaxaca calendar.

There's an excellent ceramics show at CASA (p. 23), the Art Center of San Agustin, in San Agustin, Etla, 15 minutes north of Oaxaca by car or taxi. This is a collection of exquisite ceramics by Jorge Wilmot and artists he influenced, displayed in CASA's great hall. Be sure to go upstairs to check out the views from the twin terraces. CASA is normally open from 9 to 6 daily, and is free. For more information, click here.

--The exchange rate from dollars to pesos is very favorable to visitors from the U.S. right now. You can check the current rate at: http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Christmas season (p. 11): A reader reminds us that the Christmas season in Oaxaca by no means ends on December 25. In Oaxaca, as in the rest of Mexico, children receive their gifts on January 6, delivered not by Santa Claus, but by los reyes magos, the three kings or wise men. It's a day of great festivity in and around Oaxaca. Families and friends (and, for example, students in many of the language schools) celebrate that evening by gathering to eat slices of a traditional crown-shaped bread, the rosca de los reyes, along with hot chocolate, ponche, or atole, a delicious corn-based drink. Depending on their size, the roscas are seeded with one or more tiny dolls representing the Baby Jesus. If you happen to find a doll in your slice of the rosca, it's your responsibility to provide tamales for a repeat party on February 2. So, as our Oaxacan landlady likes to say "In Oaxaca, the festivities of December end on the second of February!"

Cipro and other antibiotics (p. 62). A reader correctly points out that our mention of the antibiotic Cipro under the heading of "What you'll need in Oaxaca" could encourage over use of this important antibiotic, which in turn could contribute to the evolution of drug resistant bacteria. Accordingly, we want to add the caveat that, if you bring an antibiotic with you, you should use it only if you are sure that you are not allergic to it, are seriously ill, and have reason to think that the source is bacterial (e.g. something you ate or drank). In addition, once you start on a course of antibiotics, you should continue it for the medically indicated period of time (for example, our prescription of Cipro specifies a course of one week).

Como Agua pa' Chocolate, (p. 32), a consistently enjoyable restaurant just off the zocalo, designed around the book and movie of the same name, will be closed after August 16, 2010.

Day of the Dead destination (p. 9). As the two cemeteries in Xoxocotlan become more and more crowded with visitors on the night of October 3, other less visited destinations become more attractive. One of these, already mentioned in Viva Oaxaca but worth underlining, is Santa Maria Atzompa. It's much more peaceful than Xoxocotlan, the vistas of candle-lit graves with city lights in the background are enchanting, and the quiet devotion of families spending the night with their fieles difuntos--the faithful dead--are deeply touching.

The highly recommended French restaurant ?Donde esta' el chef? has added a hookah bar and moved to the center of Oaxaca. After August 9th, 2010 you can find it at Matamoros 206, between Garcia Vigil and Porfirio Diaz. The afternoon comida corrida is now $70 pesos.

Dr. Marco Antonio Calleja (p. 65): His correct phone number is 515 3492.

Dr. Rosa Martha Chavez (p. 65), recommended dermatologist, has moved to Hospital HMCH at Eucaliptos # 401, at the corner of Amapolis, in Colonia Reforma.

El Meson del Olivo (The Olive) Restaurant has moved to Murgia # 218, at the corner of Reforma, in the historic center. They now have a pleasant upstairs tapas bar. Their Spanish dishes are succulent, if a bit pricey.

Gueleguetza/traditional dance (other than in July, p. 46): For those who want to get a taste of Oaxaca's folkloric dance and music other than during the July Gueleguetza festival, the Hotel Camino Real and the Casa Cantera offer enjoyable shows. Casa Cantera has now moved to Dr. Federico Ortiz Armengol # 104, in Colonia Reforma, just north of the historic center. Telephone: (951) 515 3768; email casadecantera_2@prodigy.net.mx; webpage: www.casadecanter.com.

Easter in Oaxaca (p. 7): Jane Robison, owner of the B&B Casa Colonial, reminds us that in addition to the striking Procession of Silence on Good Friday, the Easter season in Oaxaca also includes the lovely Samaritana, on the fourth Friday of the 40 days of Lent, in which locals graciously present delicious drinks to passers-by. The best places to experience this are at the Cathedral, any of the major churches, in the Panuelito, and in the neighborhoods of Xochimilco and Jalatlaco (Viva Oaxaca's cover photo captures the spirit of La Samaritana.) On Thursday of the week before Easter, throngs of devoted locals make a pilgrimage to all seven churches of the city. During the morning of Good Friday, many communities, including nearby Xochimilco and the Ex-Marquesado, plus Teotitlan del Valle and Tlacochahuaya celebrate El Encuentro--the last encounter between Jesus and his mother--with poignant processions.

El Naranjo Restaurant (Valerio Trujano # 203, 1 1/2 blocks west of the zocalo, (951) 514 1878, open from 7:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. daily). Despite its international reputation, we haven't been able to recommend El Naranjo since Chef and founder Iliyana de la Vega sold it several years ago. However, after hearing some positive reports recently, we returned along with two local restaurateurs to sample some of El Naranjo's offerings. Those of us who love moles agreed that their black mole was excellent. It was served over a tender chicken breast that had been cooked exactly right. I found myself using the freshly baked bread that came with our meal to sop up every drop. The other dishes that we sampled were good, although perhaps a bit overpriced. Still, given the restaurant's very pleasant ambience, attentive service, and location, we feel we can now recommend it once again.

Ethnobotanical Gardens (p. 12). We highly recommend a visit to the Ethnobotanical Gardens for anyone with an interest in plants, and of course, in how the indigenous peoples of Oaxaca have used them. Visitors are not allowed to tour the gardens on their own. Tours in English are currently scheduled for Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 11:00 a.m., for a fee of $100 pesos per person. The English language tours can take up to two hours, so bring your walking shoes, a hat, and some water.

Flights from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido (p. 56): Aerotucan has suspended its flights between Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido "for internal reasons."

That means that there are no direct flights that can save people who want to go from Oaxaca to the beautiful Pacific coast beaches the long and curvy road trip between the two cities.

However, Mexicana Airlines (http://www.mexicana.com/cs/Satellite?pagename=MexicanaG5_US_EN%2FPage%2FHomePageComposition_US_EN) does connect Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido, although with a stop in Mexico City. You might save yourself from the curvy road, but with the connections currently available, you won't save much time, if any.

If you carefully pick midweek times coming and going, you might be able to make the round trip for around $2000 pesos, so less than $200 U.S.

Getting to Monte Alban (p. 55): Autobuses Turisticos no longer has its ticket office in the lobby of the Hotel Rivera del Angel, at Mina 518, but rather across from the hotel. They've also increased the frequency of their departures to and pick-ups from Monte Alban to every half hour.

ADO, the first class bus service, is now offering guided tours to Monte Alban and to Mitla. Their local phone is 515 9920, and the terminal is on Calzada Heroes de Chapultepec # 1036.

Great guide: We continue to be very impressed by licensed guide Pablo Gonzalez Marsch (p. 54). Pablo can take you and your group anywhere in the state safely and comfortably, provide expert insight and information (he's highly experienced and fluently bilingual), and keep you entertained with his great sense of humor. It's best to contact him in advance of your stay. Email: marsch@prodigy.net.mx; Cell: 044 951 134 7391.

How well done do you want your meat? (p. 29): If you order a steak or other meat dish, other than the very thin cuts that go into or on many Oaxacan dishes, such as tlayudas, you should be asked, or may want to specify, how well done you want the meat.

The crucial Spanish word is término, which means done. For example, your waiter might ask, "Que termino quiere?" The following terms should work in most restaurants.

término ingles or termino rojo ingles: Extremely rare. The outsides of the cut of meat should be seared, the middle will still be raw and cool.

término medio rojo: Medium rare. The outsides of the cut should be seared, the middle should still be red, but starting to cook.

La Biznaga restaurant (p. 30) continues to impress us. We dropped in with some friends for an afternoon comida. We had three of their starters, plus their sopa seca de fideos y chorizo, their salmon with cilantro pesto main course, and their chicken breast with apple slices and apple sauce. Every dish was as good or better than ever, with fresh, distinct and original flavors, well presented and well served. Part of that freshness comes from Chef Fernando's determination to utilize as much local, organic food as possible. Very highly recommended!

Los Danzantes restaurant (p. 30) has been receiving kudos from visitors and locals alike (although one visitor told us about an overcooked salmon dish and poor service). Their Friday fixed price comida is a gourmet bargain. Don't miss their excellent desserts! Plus, they have what we think is the best bar in town and a striking setting.

Masajes Schaa' (p. 47) currently is offering 30 minute massage sessions for $300 pesos, 1 hour for $500 pesos.

Mezzaluna Ristorante at Allende # 113 (Telephone 516 8195, open daily from 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.) joins Casa de Maria Lombardo and Vieja Lira (p. 33) as an enjoyable place for good Italian food. We especially recommend their salads and pizzas.

Money (p. 67). In recent years, the exchange rate tended to stay between 10 and 11 Mexican pesos per U.S. dollar. However, since the fall of 2008, it has at times risen to 15 pesos per dollar, which is obviously an advantage to visitors from the U.S. Here's a website at which you can easily check the current exchange rate (and also that for Canadian dollars, Euros, or any other currencies): http://www.xe.com/ucc/. You can enter USD for dollars and MXN for pesos.

Monte Alban Shuttle Service (p. 55) now costs $5.00 U.S. for a van ride to Monte Alban and back, and offers optional guide service for an additional fee.

Oaxaca's seventh annual organ festival (p. 9). The state of Oaxaca is home to 24 baroque organs. Spearheaded by Eduardo Pepe and Cicely Winter, many of these irreplaceable instruments have been lovingly restored, with more to come. Every year the Institute of Historic Organs of Oaxaca invites world-class musicians to give solo and ensemble concerts on these organs. The 2009 festival took place between February 18 and 23, and featured master classes, lectures, and a great series of concerts in colonial churches. In terms of the instruments, the settings, and the musicians, this festival can hold its own with any of the great music festivals in the world. For more information, click here. To see photos of the restored organ at Tlacochahuaya, click here.

Rental Cars (p. 56): We no longer recommend Hertz in Oaxaca. We've found consistently good service, well-maintained vehicles and reasonable prices at Alamo, 5 de Mayo #203-a in the historic center. Local numbers: (951) 514 8534 or (951) 515 8686.

Safety issues: As we discuss in Viva Oaxaca (p. 5), we consider Oaxaca to be a safe and secure place to visit, explore and enjoy. The dire warnings you may have been reading about Mexico mostly apply to a few of the border cities most impacted by President Calderon's war on drugs. However, as with most destinations around the world, commonsense precautions are advisable.

In the historic center during the day and usually well into the night, there are plenty of people around, as well as a substantial police presence. However, outside of the usual tourist areas, and at times when fewer people are around, unpleasant incidents can occur. At least one person we know of was robbed of her cellphone and camera while walking alone in the late afternoon on Cerro del Fortin, the hill above the city of Oaxaca. Several people we know, including experienced long-term residents, have been robbed through a scam that involves one person surreptitiously smearing or squirting their clothes with an unpleasant substance, for example mustard, and another, perhaps a block away, "noticing" the problem and offering to help by cleaning up the mess. If this happens to you, don't let anyone "help" by patting your clothes clean. Just say NO! in a loud, clear voice, repeat that if needed, and walk away. This is one situation where you do not need to be polite!

In short, please be alert and try to avoid situations where you might be putting yourself at risk.

Temple Restaurant (p. 30) continues to receive rave reviews from our friends from both north and south of the border. Chef Antonio Cuellar is doing a great job.

Thai food in Oaxaca! The existence of a place where you can eat good Thai food in Oaxaca is a not-too-well-kept secret. It's not a restaurant, but the home and lovely patio of a excellent chef, open to all comers on Sundays only from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m. This Sunday treat is very popular with the resident ex-pats. It's a bit tricky to find, so call for directions at 503 8134, or (cell) 044 951 216 6790. Look for a sign on the door that says "Casa de Kiji".

Transport from the airport to town, and from town to the airport via Transportes Terrestre (p. 54): the price has gone up from $35 pesos to $44 pesos.

Transportes de Ocotlán (p. 55), where you can catch a bus to Ocotlán, is on Miguel Cabrera near the corner of Zaragoza.

Airline serving Oaxaca: Relatively low-cost Volaris (http://www.volaris.com.mx) uses Toluca as its hub, and flies from there to most of the important cities in Mexico. The round trips linking Oaxaca and Toluca, and Oaxaca and Tijuana--just across the border from San Diego--can be surprisingly inexpensive.

Apartments/small hotel: For restful stays from a few days to a month in a lovely setting, we recommend La Casa de los Abuelos, very centrally located at Reforma # 410. The owner, charming and efficient Rosita, offers 8 comfortable suites, some with king sized beds, some with queens, and some with the slightly smaller matrimonial beds. All rooms have TV, internet connectivity, refrigerator and coffeemaker. Breakfast is not included. The house itself is a 200-year-old colonial style building surrounding a charming and tranquil inner courtyard. It's the sort of place that visitors come back to year after year. Prices as of 3/15/09 are $600 pesos (at the present exchange rate that's just $40 USD) per night for two people, with a significant reduction for longer stays. Webpage: www.lacasa-de-rosita.com; email: lacasadelosabuelos@hotmail.com; Telephone (+52) (951) 516 1982.

Breakfast at Posada Casa Oaxaca, Garcia Vigil # 407 (p. 25)--a well kept secret. If you want to have a superb breakfast in one of the most elegant patios in Oaxaca, and are willing to pay for the privilege, ring the doorbell outside the discretely closed doors of this elegant hotel any morning. You'll be rewarded with delicious American or Oaxacan food and attentive service in a tranquil setting.

Black Coffee Gallery (on Alcala across from Libros Amate, Amate Books). If you've been to Oaxaca in the last few years, you might remember a wreck of a building, hidden behind metal sheeting, on a prime corner of Alcala and Abasolo. The building has now been elegantly refurbished, and houses a very modern, artsy coffeehouse, a store with expensive jewelry, accessories, etc., and, perish the thought, a Cinnabon.

Budget hotel (p. 28): Hotel Aurora, at Bustamonte 212, emerges as a good option for a comfortable, centrally located hotel in the lower price range. Rooms for two in the colonial section start at $450 pesos, and in the newer section at $500. Their 32 rooms are pleasant and clean and have modern bathrooms. The hotel is very close to the zocalo and downtown covered markets. Telephone: +52 951 516 3447 or 516 4145. Email: hotelaurora@prodigy.net.mx or hotel-aurora@hotmail.com. Web: www.hotelesdeoaxaca.com/hotelAurora.html

Convenient convenience store: Mayor Domo chocolates has installed a spacious and reasonably well stocked convenience store in front of their restaurant at Alcala # 302. We can't recommend the restaurant, unless you are here with young children who will enjoy playing in the restaurant's playroom, at the back of the large dining hall. You can get coffee, hot chocolate, and pastries in the pleasant coffee shop, also in front of the restaurant.

Cooking school at Casa Crespo (http://www.casacrespo.com/cookingclasses.html). We've heard very positive reviews about the half-day cooking classes offered by elegant Casa Crespo, at Calle Crespo # 415. Multi-talented owner/host Oscar Carrizosa can be reached at
+52 (951) 514 1102 from outside Mexico, or 01 (951) 514 1102 from within Mexico, or by email at: casacrespo@go-oaxaca.com. The classes last a half a day, cost $60 U.S. per person, and reportedly are expertly taught and result in great food. Participants can invite guests to join them to dine on the delicacies the class has produced for $25 per person. One long-time resident told us that it was the best meal they had ever had in Oaxaca.

Cooking classes for children offered by celebrated Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera. For details click here.

Direct flights between Los Angeles and Oaxaca: Starting December 5, 2008, Mexicana Airlines will be offering direct flights from Los Angeles to Oaxaca and back. The flights leave LAX just after midnight and arrive at Oaxaca's airport just after 5:00 a.m. Return flights leave Oaxaca at 6:55 a.m. and will have you back in LA by 9:30 a.m. Mexicana tells us that there will be five flights per week from LA-- every day except Tuesday and Wednesday--but only three flights per week from Oaxaca to Los Angeles--Monday, Friday and Sunday.

Eye, ear, nose, throat and allergy specialist (p. 64): If your need to see an ENT or allergy specialist, and your Spanish is adequate, we highly recommend Dr. Alberto Garnica Castillo, at Calle Valdivieso #116, Interior 10, very close to the zocalo. He is warm and personable, an attentive listener, a clear communicator, a careful and experienced diagnostician, and thoughtful and careful in terms of treatment. His telephone is 514 6990, but he sees people in the order of their arrival at his office. His hours are 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. through 2 p.m. on Saturday. Dr. Garnica understands English, but feels that he does not speak it well enough to treat patients who speak English only.

Fuego y Sazon, a very promising new restaurant. Fuego y sazon is located at # 306 on 5 de Mayo, in Jalatlaco, a cobblestone-paved neighborhood just east of the historic center. If you take a taxi, you can tell the driver that the restaurant is "al lado de Hotel Los Pilares"--next to the hotel Las Pilares. The young owner, Carlos, has created a spacious and attractive, open-sided dining area, and chef Laura prepares a variety of tasty dishes. We enjoyed her mole negro over chicken, red snapper steamed with savory herbs, and, for dessert, a knock-out dish composed of snippets of homemade flan in a liqueur-based sauce. They pride themselves in making everything they serve from scratch, and it shows. We're going back as soon as we can. Highly recommended. They are open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and from 8 to 5 on Sunday.

Gallery Arte Biulu': Even though Oaxaca enjoys an exciting art scene and many excellent galleries, Arte Biulu', at Aldama 100, in Colonia Jalatlaco, offers something new. The director of Arte Biulu', Laura Assuntina Di Giovanni, known to her friends as Nina, combines an interest in both prehispanic and contemporary ceramics, as well as a variety of other media and techniques. She wants this new space to be both a stimulating gallery and a venue for a wide range of art classes. The opening featured works by 7 women artists from Oaxaca, elsewhere in Mexico and other countries, the most striking of which were the vivid paintings by Nancy Hild, who paints with the kind of painterly detail usually found in European museums, yet with entirely contemporary and original themes and compositions. Arte Biulu' is well worth a visit.

Gastroenterologists: If you need to consult with a specialist, these come highly recommended:

Luciano Tenorio, Clinica el Carmen, Abasolo #213 (Interior #2), 501 0477 (after 5:00 p.m.)

Hacienda/Restaurante Santa Marta (Just off the state road to Nazareno Etla, in San Sebastian de las Flores, about 15 minutes by car or taxi from the center of Oaxaca, 521 2835 and 521 2836.) Santa Marta is the sister restaurant to La Escondida (p. 37). Like La Escondida, this is a large buffet-style restaurant frequented by Oaxacan businesspeople and their families. Also like La Escondida, you can sample from among hundreds of dishes, and the food is surprisingly good. Santa Marta offers lots of outdoor play space for children, so it's a particularly good place for families.

Laura Andrea Olachea Magriña

Website: http://spanishclassesoaxaca.sitiosprodigy.com.mx

spanishclassesoaxaca@yahoo.com

Cel. Phone: +(52-1) 951-128-84-11; home: +(52-951) 51-470-94

Calling from Oaxaca:

Cel. Phone: 044-951-128-84-11; home: 51-470-94

Calling from any place in the Mexican Republic:

Cel. Phone: 045-951-128-84-11; home: 01-951-51-470-94

Those of us who study with Laura feel lucky to have her here in Oaxaca. She's an intelligent, well educated and well traveled woman whose teaching style is energetic, engaging and enjoyable. She's also extremely good at adjusting what and how she teaches to the level of Spanish that each student starts with. She's also very flexible in terms of the timing, length and frequency of lessons, and all at a very reasonable hourly price. Laura has also pioneered the use of video Skype calls to allow students to continue their lessons with her even when they are not in Oaxaca.

Laura adds a lot of value above and beyond the actual classes by providing handouts and emailed information about events and traditions in and around Oaxaca, sponsoring activities for students (for example Scrabble in Spanish at her home), highly popular Day-of-the-Dead outings, and alerting students to potential problems such as a demonstration or time change. I would have missed the latest time change, and an early morning get-together, had it not been for a "heads-up" email to all her students from Laura.

Internist/General Medicine/Weight Loss/Nutrition: We noticed that several our friends looked a lot slimmer than the last time we saw them. Their secret? Dr. Alberto Zamacona Esparza, a congenial, perfectly bilingual doctor who also is a Diplomate in Obesity and Nutrition. Everyone who goes to him recommends him highly. Office at Libres 604-B, in Oaxaca's center. Tel: 513 6422; Cell: (044) 951 130 8730; Email: draizamacona@yahoo.com. Dr. Z. even makes house calls.

Movies in Oaxaca: Oaxaca has two modern, multi-screen movie theaters located in the large shopping centers southeast of town, Cinepolis and Multimax. These theaters screen first-run movies, although usually a few weeks later than they appear in the U.S. It's a somewhat guilty pleasure for those of us who live or spend a lot of time in Oaxaca to sneak out to see a new movie that we've been hearing about.

Of more interest to visitors, however, are the free screenings at Cineclub El Pochote, at Garcia Vigil 817, which take place Tuesday through Sunday at starting at about 7 p.m. In addition to films in Spanish, El Pochote often features art films, documentaries, and U.S. and international classics.

Museum Belber Jimenez (p. 14): As promised, brothers Juan and Federico have opened a museum to complement their store, Federico's (see p. 50), at the corner of Matamoros and Tinoco y Palacios. The new musuem, Museo Belber Jimenez, is well worth a visit. It features outstanding handcrafted jewelry, works in silver, tapetes, embroidered goods, and ceramics, all displayed in the rooms of a beautifully restored colonial building, around a classic courtyard.

Museo Textil de Oaxaca--Textile Museum of Oaxaca (p. 14): If you're interested in weavers and weaving around the world, this new museum in a beautifully redone colonial building at the corner of Hidalgo and Fiallo in the center of Oaxaca is well worth a visit. We saw their current show, "Dyed knots, ikat, plangi and tritik," that featured an amazing variety of tied and dyed fabrics from Mexico, Nigeria, and India. The museum also sponsors a variety of programs and hands-on workshops. Open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Monday, closed Tuesday. Entry is free. Further information at www.museotextildeoaxaca.org.mx.

Running until March 15, 2010 the textile museum has a lovely show of very fine handmade textiles by the women weavers of Miramar. The show also includes some beautiful photos of the weavers and a well-made video. Warmly recommended.

Pilates: If you're a Pilates aficionado and are here long enough to want to keep up with your workouts, we can recommend Magpilates Estudio at Blvd. de la Paz # 101-C, in San Felipe del Agua, a taxi-ride north of the center. They have a variety of packages, but you can get an evaluation and two private sessions for $600 pesos, two or three group sessions per week for a month for $1200 and $1620 pesos, or two or three private sessions per week for a month for $2520 pesos or $3600 pesos. The facility is well staffed, well run and spotless.

Real estate agent: House hunting in Oaxaca can be a very hit-and-miss experience. However, if you're looking, we'd suggest you contact Lane Thomas Gilbert Cherin, a smart and personable expat who will jet-propel your search. You can reach Lane by email at lanegilbert@hotmail.com; landline: (951) 540 8060, Cel: 044 951 503 3539.

Restaurant rating website: If you want to see what other consumers have thought about Oaxaca restaurants, you can find ratings and reviews at: www.pruebalo.com.mx/ranking.php. We find these ratings to be reasonable on the whole, but for whatever reasons, heavy on Italian, seafood, and other non-Oaxacan restaurants.

Santa Ana del Valle--the other rug-weaving town (p. 18): Santa Ana is just enough off the beaten track to dodge the busloads of tourists who at times flood Teotitlan del Valle, the more famous tapete-weaving pueblo. You get to Santa Ana along route 190 that heads east from Oaxaca past El Tule, the ruins of Dainzu', Lambityeco, and Yagul, and on to Mitla. Just turn north at Tlacolula on the road towards Diaz Ordaz, and follow signs to the center of Santa Ana, just minutes from the highway. In addition to a small market displaying traditional tapetes, many made with natural colors, you'll also find a small but interesting museum dedicated to the town's history and prehistory, the beautiful 16th-century church, and a tiny church museum. You may need to ask the person in charge of the town museum to unlock the church, which is well worth seeing. Click here for some photos of the town and its attractions.

Source for low-carb foods: If you're on an Atkins diet, or just trying to cut back on carbs, you can find low and zero-carb foods at the new LOWcarb sin azucar/Le monde sans sucre, at Berriozabal # 208, in the center (open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., 516-2295. This is a small store with a good idea, which we hope survives and grows.

Tacos: We still frequently drop by Tacos Alvaro (p. 34) for their tacos and pozole. However, we're happy to add another taqueria to our recommended list--Los Combinados--at Reforma # 705, near Conzatti Park, and at Emilio Carranza # 602 in Colonia Reforma (2:00 p.m. to 10 p.m., closed Sunday). Their ingredients and condiments, such as diced pineapples, to add to your taco are fresh and tasty. In addition to tacos filled with your choice of more than a dozen ingredients, Los Combinados also offers appetizing grilled sandwiches and tasty alambre, mixtures of sliced meat, veggies, and cheese quickly sauteed into a savory dish.

Travel Agent (p. 54): Another good source of help with travel arrangements and tours in or around Oaxaca is Viajes Paradiso, headed by charming, energetic, and multilingual (French-English-Spanish) Marie-Noëlle Monsch. Viajes Paradiso is located in the Plaza de las Virgenes, at Plazuela Labastida 115, Interior 9A. Telephone/fax: (951) 516 6967 or 516 3061. Email: viajesparadiso@yahoo.com.mx.

Veterinarian--highly recommended for availability and reliability: Luciano Alberto Baltazar Carrasco, Carretera Internacional # 804, Pueblo Nuevo, Oaxaca. Telephone 044-951-112-1131.

Weaving families in Teotitlan del Valle (p. 18): Our hats are off to the residents of Teotitlan, Oaxaca's most famous weaving village, who seem to understand just what visitors like to experience. We're adding the family of Josefina Mendez Lopez, at Guerrero # 9 in Teotitlan to our list of talleres, workshops, well worth a visit. Not only do they have many beautiful and beautifully woven tapetes on display, made of 100% pure wool and natural dyes, they also will be happy to take you through the weaving process from carding the wool to making the dyes. Cell: 044 951 151 1395; email: josefinaml13@yahoo.com.mx.

We also recommend a stop at km 2 along the highway into Teotitlan del Valle, to enjoy the all wool, hand-woven, naturally colored weavings of Pantaleon Ruiz Martinez and his extended family, at El Encanto. Friends have often returned from El Encanto with "just what we were looking for."

Good Chinese food comes to Oaxaca! Many expats and long-term visitors to Oaxaca wish for good Chinese food like they find back in the States or Canada. Shop owner and now restaurateur Zhu Han Wang has granted their wish by opening China Beijing at Jasmines 616 in Colonia Reforma (open 1 pm to 10 pm daily, Tel. 132 5864, moderately expensive). Wang has imported a chef directly from Beijing. Wang tells us that the chef still does not speak a word of Spanish or English. However, judging by the delicious food he turns out, that's not slowing him down. The menu features a selection of soups, and a range of savory rice, noodle, veggie and meat dishes. We ate there with another couple of foodies, and all of us were delighted. This is a long-overdue and very welcome addition to Oaxaca's dining choices.

You read about it here first--Cafeteria Bander Burger. In the next edition of Viva Oaxaca this oddly named but very pleasant spot will be listed as a good choice for an inexpensive comida corrida. However, we're also recommending it for breakfast--lots and lots of choices-lunch with a wide range of sandwiches and burgers, and typical Oaxacan dishes. It's located at Pino Suarez 802, across from the east side of Llano Park, a few doors south of Marco Polo. Open 8 am to 9 pm Monday through Saturday, 8 to 8 on Sunday.

Casa Oaxaca--the restaurant in the hotel: We're sharing a secret here; the elegant restaurant in the courtyard of the Hotel Casa Oaxaca is available for breakfast and dinner not only for hotel guests, but for the rest of us. Spurred by a French friend who was dying to check out their food, drink and ambiente, we had a superb meal there. We and diners at the other tables were given personalized service by the chef, who came out to show us their fresh fish and giant shrimp. Following his suggestion, our table sampled red snapper prepared in three different ways, plus the shrimp, all of which were delicious. their meat dishes and Oaxacan specialties are also first rate. We had a superb dining experience, from our pre-dinner drinks to the imaginative and mouth-watering desserts. Highly recommended for an elegant breakfast or a somewhat expensive, but very special night out. Reservations required. Tel: 951 516 9923 or 951 514 4173.

Donde esta' el chef?--an excellent new restaurant for an afternoon comida corrida (fixed-price multi-course meal).

We have to thank our friend K.T. for alerting us to Donde esta' el chef--Comedor Frances, at Bellisario Dominguez # 512 in Colonia Reforma, open Monday through Friday from 2:00 to 5:00 p.m.

The answer to the question--where is the chef--is that he is everywhere. Chef Jean Michel Thomas is in the kitchen, but he's also waiting tables, clearing tables, washing dishes, serving up inventive and delicious food in his cozy (read small) but very friendly restaurant, and even finding time to chat in Spanish, English and French with his customers.

Today's starters were a savory cold avocado-cream soup or a crouton-based salad that everyone raved about. Choices for the main course were sauteed chicken accompanied by ratatouille or delicately prepared fish filets over a shredded jicama base, which again drew raves from everyone in our group. Dessert choices included a moist Oaxacan chocolate cake that I would rate as the best baked chocolate item I've had in Oaxaca, and a creamy guava custard--all of the above expertly prepared by Jean Michel.

K.T. tells us that every time she's eaten here, the food has been equally inventive and enjoyable.

With a fruit-flavored agua to drink during the meal, and coffee, this thoroughly enjoyable comida corrida cost just $60 pesos.

El Teatro Culinario (Allende 107, between Garcia Vigil and Alcala). This small, charming restaurant is artist/architect/entrepeneur Oscar Carrizosa latest creation. It's very reasonable comida corrida (fixed-price afternoon meal) is drawing rave reviews. You'll get an interesting, well-prepared, and delicious multi-course meal at a good price. Friends who have dined at El Teatro Culinario, ordering from the menu, are giving us mixed reviews. All agree that chef Jose Luis Diaz is capable of turning out imaginative, gourmet dishes, but most also agree that the prices are high for the portions one gets. The already very popular comida corrida sometimes sells out, so best to get there early, say by 1:00 p.m. Reservations are recommended for dinner; call 516 0918.

Hosteria de Alcala (Macedonio Alcala 307, 951 516-2093, open every day from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.).

You'll find the Hosteria in the beautiful covered courtyard just beyond the entrance to Amate Books, three blocks north of the zocalo on Oaxaca's main walking street, the Alcala or andador turistico. It's one of the most romantic places to eat in Oaxaca, with attentive service and consistently good to excellent food. Many Oaxacans say that the Hosteria's selection of regional specialties is first rate. We've enjoyed their moles and soups--especially their superb version of sopa azteca--and also their excellent salads.

I (Robert) am a Caesar salad aficionado, and highly recommend theirs, made to order at your tableside.

The Hosteria has been serving international visitors for years, and maintains high standards. You can eat any of their food, including their salads, without worrying.

The Hosteria is also a great place to drop into late in the evening for one of their flambeed deserts, dramatically prepared at your table. These are superb, and surprisingly inexpensive.

La Caballeriza--a taxi ride from central Oaxaca (see La Escondida, p. 37), but well worth the trip for a savory afternoon comida.

La Caballeriza is a gracious restaurant featuring excellent regional cuisine, in particular, succulent meat dishes.

It's located on the highway that branches off the road to El Tule and runs to San Agustin Yatareni, at KM 2, (1.3 KM past La Escondida).

On the left you'll see the sign for its sister buffet restaurant, Hacienda San Agustin (which is OK, but we think not as good as La Escondida). Turn into the large shared parking lot, park near the back, walk past the children's play area on your left, and you'll see the lovely lawn and stand-alone building of La Caballeriza. You'll find spacious and comfortable seating inside or outside.

The restaurant serves comida from noon through 6:00 every day of the week. Telephone: 517 6477.

We've very much enjoyed their memelas, mole, and other Oaxacan dishes. But it's their meat dishes that lure us back again and again. These include unusually savory regional cuts such as arrachera plus a wide range of American and Argentine cuts, prepared as you like them and at reasonable prices.

If you find yourself craving meat, take the 15 minute ride out to La Caballeriza.

Open Monday through Saturday for breakfast from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., afternoon comida and dinner from 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.

La Catrina is a new high-end restaurant featuring Oaxacan specialties that are well prepared and presented. The setting is beautiful--an elegantly redesigned colonial house and courtyard. The two-tiered courtyard has been covered with a striking dome. Architect and painter Rolando Rojas has decorated the interior simply but with an artist's touch. Although a bit pricey, it's a great ambiente for a special meal.

This is the kind of place where you're likely to see high-level Oaxacan politicos or other movers and shakers.

Breakfast is highly recommended. They offer a wide variety of Oaxacan and north-of-the-border dishes, made carefully and well with fresh ingredients. Their Oaxacan dishes such as chilaquiles con tres chiles y chorizo (soft tortilla strips with a rich chile sauce and spicy Mexican sausage) chilaquiles con juevos (soft totilla strips, a fresh and spicy chile sauce, and scrambled eggs) were extremely good. Their juevos estrellads con crema de cilantro (eggs served over a tortilla with a surprisingly good cilantro-flavored sauce) were also a hit.

We currently have a split opinion concerning their afternoon comida and evening cena. We were disappointed in their drinks. Since they were on the menu, two of us ordered martinis, which turned out to be overly shaken and watery. We probably would have done better with their offerings of wine--mostly Mexican, Spanish or South American, or mezcal.

Several in our group started with soup--a cream of tortilla--which all of us found to be first rate.

The restaurant offers a mole sampler, which turned out to be a perfectly done chicken breast with three small ceramic bowls of mole--yellow, red and black. Our mole maven thought the black mole was one of the best he'd had. However, the red was a bit too sweet and, even for someone who likes cinnamon, a bit heavy on that spice. The yellow mole was good but not great.

Several in our party ordered a main dish of a cut of pork served over fried plantains. A friend, a chef in his own right, rated the dish a B+. The accompanying black beans prepared with hierba santa, a wonderful licorice-flavored herb, were terrific.

The desserts were interesting. We shared a pyramid with a bittersweet chocolate shell and a dense chocolate interior, and a pumpkin mousse, both or which which were quite good.

All the dishes were elegantly presented, and the wait staff was attentive and responsive.

We're definitely going back to sample still more of La Catrina's offerings. For now, we're giving the setting, service, and presentation a solid A, the breakfast an A also, but an A minus to B for comida--so far, not quite equal to the setting.

We'll add that most of our friends who have eaten at La Catrina have enjoyed it thoroughly.

We have to credit Henry, the owner of Amate Books, for alerting us to this hidden treasure. Yu Ne Nisa, Restaurante de Ofelia, is the creation of Ofelia Toledo Peneda, a native of the Istmus of Tehuantepec, and talented chef. Although Ofelia's menu covers the range from delicate and zesty appetizers, through soups, and on to main courses and desserts, on our first visit we mostly made our way through her appetizers. We had mouth-watering guarnaches, small tortillas topped with a delicate and delicious filling, flaky empanadas with an equally delicate, completely different filling, and two kinds of crumbly cheese eaten on thin, crispy baked tortillas. Ofelia also regaled us with small but very spicy chile rellenos, one of her specialties.

We're going to go back to sample more of the menu, but we loved both Ofelia's mole of toasted corn and her yellow mole.

The restaurant, at Amapolas # 1425, in Colonia Reforma, is small, simple, and comfortable. It's posted hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day, but Ofelia says it's best to call in advance--(951) 515 6982--just to make sure.

In-depth resource for travelers and visitors to Oaxaca: Long-time resident Alvin Starkman has written a large number of very detailed and helpful articles about visiting, traveling and living in Oaxaca. Check them out here.

Oaxaca is one of the poorest and most indigenous states in Mexico. In addition it was the center of a dramatic political upheaval in 2006 (see p. 3). As a result, many people who want to help are drawn here. Helping through volunteering, donations, and other non-political involvements can be very useful and gratifying. However, anyone wanting to come to Oaxaca to become involved politically needs to be aware that the Mexican constitution expressly forbids foreigners from interfering in Mexican political matters. Legally, anyone doing so can be summarily deported. This doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Much more seriously, as the murders of independent photojournalist Brad Will in 2006, and of activist Marcella Grace in 2008 tragically show, Mexican politics can be fatal. So come to Oaxaca to experience and enjoy the rich mix of cultures, or to help in non-political ways, but not to become involved politically.